Intellighenzia Project

 

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Mike's Mail EP 3

This Mike's mail answers the question of what style of anchor construction and when to use it. We got called out enough over the style of anchor we have been promoting. As usual what should be a straight forward demo of how to do it and why. A few changes came into being. From the time I started this video to the point of finishing my viewpoint on the sliding X type anchor changed or at least shifted to the left a bit. I can't give a definitive answer as to what to use and when as this would be doing you a disservice. The variables and conditions are just to great to limit ones mind with thinking that anyone way is better then another. Will Gadd has a couple articles that you should read. He puts into words what I am thinking much better then I can. He also understands the benefits of the sliding X system but also it's pitfalls. I personally think it is one of those things that appear to to good to be true so it often isn't. It's pitfalls are great and cannot be ignored. http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/maybe-better-to-limit-anchor-extension.html http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/equalizationextension-in-anchors-post-2.html http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/belay-forces-and-look-at-equallette.html At the end of this flick I show a demonstration of a sliding X being incorporated into a standard anchor. After watching this you should have a pretty good picture of what it takes to build a anchor. Here are a couple other sites that helped me with this video. TradGurl http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety_4.htm Aussie Chockstone http://www.chockstone.org/techtips/equalise.htm Rockclimbing .com http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/multi_point_anchor_redundant_sliding_x_69768.html
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